Thursday, May 29, 2014


How to Remove Undercoating

Undercoating is that layer of thick rubber covering everything under your car to protect it from rust and wear. While this has a number of benefits, trying to remove it can make a person curse its very existence. In the past, this daunting task has been handled with a myriad of grinders, torches, scrapers and anything else that seemed like a good idea at the time, including a long list of solvents. Chemical removers for this job have come a long way, and high-quality products are now readily available to the public. 

Instructions

    • 1
      Place a piece of cardboard or a plastic drop cloth on the ground, large enough to catch everything that falls from under the car during the work.
    • 2
      Cover all surrounding areas of the vehicle with high-quality masking tape. Undercoating remover can damage painted surfaces.
    • 3
      Put on a pair of disposable gloves and a pair of safety glasses or a face shield.
    • 4
      Spray a coat of high-quality undercoating remover on the undercoating material. The remover will foam up on the surface. Let it soak in until the foam is gone.
    • 5
      Scrape away the loosened undercoating with a metal paint scraper.
    • 6
      Repeat Steps 4 and 5 until all of the undercoating has been removed.
    • 7
      Clean off any remaining residue left behind by the remover, using wax and grease remover and paper towels.
















SUPRAS.com


Tips for buying a used MKIII Supra Article# 76

Category: MKIII _ 1986.5-1992 
Subcategory: General Info
Visited: 34914 
Usability Rating: Coming Soon





Article:



My question(s) then, really are just what are some
> common things to look at in a used MKIII, and does this
> seem like a Supra in reasonable condition for a reasonable
> price? I'm assuming you may have specific questions for me
> (to better answer my questions), and I will gladly cooperate
> and answer them, but as I said I have little knowledge about
> Supras (and not that much about cars in general, really). So
> I'm just asking for your help in evaluating this car. Thank you
> for your time.


A few years ago, I wrote a dissertation on what to look for when buying a used Supra . The general write-up is located at http://www.supracentral.com/albuy.html, to which I have added the Diagnostic Checks and the Turbo check via this email. Although the write-up is for a turbo model, most of what is said applies to the NA, as well.

Items to bring along: flashlight, Phillips screwdriver, a ground cloth to lie on while peering at the underside of the car, something to clean your hands with and, if available, a car knowledgeable friend.

Complete the diagnostic check of the Engine (specifically the EFI system - Electronic Fuel Injection System). The procedure is listed beginning at:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_023.html

Complete the diagnostic check of the ABS system. Begin by disconnecting the actuator check connector, and then read the code flashed by the ABS dash warning light - somewhat similar to the check engine diagnostic above. The procedure can be found at: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/br/BR_51.html

Tail light warning light - check to make sure all of the tail lights and guide lights work - if not, loss of ground or a fubar socket is the most likely problem.

Inspecting the dirty side: Start with the front end and lie down on the ground on your back (use a floor mat or the ground cloth to keep clean), stick your head under the front bumper and look up at the structure behind the bumper. Use the flashlight to help you see under here. You are looking for bent metal, evidence of paint over-spray in the wheel wells and coil springs, missing pieces, etc. All are evidence of serious accidents. Unless there is a severe shortage of used Supras in your area (which is normal, when only 100,000 or so were sold in the US), reject any that show damage. While under there, have a look around for evidence of oil leaks, shock absorber leaks and bent suspension. Ask if the car has been wrecked. Many people will lie about this until you point out evidence of the damage.

Repeat the above for the rear end of the car. Check the shocks, CV joint boots, differential, exhaust system and the metal forward of the rear bumper. Look forward at the driveshaft and transmission, looking for leaks and bent pieces. Check the rear suspension for bent pieces. Check the floor pan and rocker panels for large dents and for rust if you are in an area where rust is a problem.

Ask if the car has a salvage title. Stay away from any that do. Cars with salvage titles are hard to insure and finance and are worth about 50% of a non-salvage title car. Many are bought at auction and repaired by people who do a less than professional job. If you have any doubts about the car or its title, go elsewhere.

Using the flashlight, peer through the wheels into the brake calipers (this will be difficult if the Supra has stock wheels!). Try to determine how much pad is left. It is sometimes difficult to see just how thick the pads are. It helps to move the car a little to see around the spokes. Are the rotors scored? Replacements can be expensive. Ask when the brakes were replaced.

Inside the hatch area: Raise the wheel well cover and remove spare, if necessary, and look for evidence of water/rust. With the wheel well cover open, are the plastic utility trays and covers still in place? Close the wheel well cover and inspect the interior body covers for damage. Are all four (4) targa holders in place and function? Does the roller shade operate properly to cover the storage area? Remove the access panels at the taillight assemblies and antenna, and look inside for evidence of water/rust and/or bodywork.

While the hatch is open, check the hatch seal for wear, openings, and evidence of water intrusion (rust).

Interior: Check for signs of unusual wear. Supra interiors are pretty rugged. The fabric seats will fade if left in the sun. Look for wear on the driver's seat bolsters where your backside rubs as you get in the car. Check the clutch and brake pedal pads. Do they look like the right amount of wear for the mileage on the speedo? Check the doorsill near the certification sticker for another sticker that tells of a replaced speedometer and check the owner's manual and warranty manual for notations of a changed speedo. Sometimes this info is scratched into the paint near the certification sticker. Most states require the installer of a replacement speedometer to make notification in one or more of these places. Ask the seller if the speedo has been changed.

Ask the seller(s) if they have the security code for the radio (if it is the stock radio). Try all controls and check all lights. Check general appearance. After you have seen a few Supras, you will know what a good one looks like. If you are not familiar with the Supra, inspect several to establish a baseline.

The targa top: Inspect the interior carefully and look for signs of water intrusion. Targas are, for the most part, know for leakage. If in doubt, ask the Owner to remove the targa and inspect the neoprene seals. Also, note if there is an original targa removal wrench and pouch.

Inspecting the body panels. Are they smooth and do the seams match well? Sight down the sides of the car in bright light. Do you see any ripples, roughness or other signs of body repair? If possible, check the paint under fluorescent light. It will show sanding marks and other signs of body and paintwork. Check the doorsill areas and rocker panels for signs of rust. Look for little bubbles in the paint. If the car has metallic doorsill plates, ask if you can remove them to look for rust. You will need the Phillips screwdriver for this. How good is the paint? Do some of the painted panels look fresher than the others? If they do, the car will be two shades of the color after a few years of fading. If you find some discrepancies, ask again about accidents. Inspect the doorsills for over-spray; check the black rubber parts next to the paint for over-spray. All are signs of a repaint, which likely means an accident. Look inside (from the exterior) the taillight assemblies, the outer shell often becomes separated from the inner shell, resulting in moisture between the two shells.

Under the Hood: Check for general cleanliness, oil leaks, and missing parts and inspect the area around the radiator and headlights for signs of accident damage. Also look for leaking coolant. Ask if the timing belt has been changed. It is due at 60K mile intervals. Ask if the spark plug wires have been changed; many go bad at about 30K miles. Look to see if the injector cover is in place (the one that says Turbo on it) - this is one of the first cosmetic items to fail at the bolt corners.

Consider doing a compression check, especially if the engine is running unevenly. You can do it yourself if you have the tools and a compression gauge or you can pay a shop to do it for you. In fact, you can also pay a shop to go over the whole car and give you a report. The cost for this varies greatly; make sure you have an understanding with the shop about what will be done and what it will cost.

Consider doing a vacuum test. 18-21 psi vacuum at idle is normal. Pulsating or less vacuum is an indication of several things going bad - I have much more on vacuum "results," if someone wants to know. Check idle speed, it should be close to 650 rpm at idle (warm engine) - if not, the idle speed sensor may need to be reset or there are other "problems."

Disconnect the hoses that connect to the accordion hose, including the Power Steering Idle-Up hose (small) on the bottom of the accordion (about mid-length of the accordion), and then loosen the clamp where the accordion connects to the turbo. You will, most likely, have to remove the upper plastic/metal pipe that routes from the intercooler to the 3000 pipe (the one that says "3000" on it) in order to access the accordion hose. Pull the accordion from the turbo and reach inside the turbo inlet and grab the center of the compressor wheel (at the center shaft connection). Check for radial (side-to-side; up-and-down) and axial (back-and-forth) play. Allowable play is 0.13mm (.0051-inch) axial and 0.18mm (.0071 inch) radial; this is, approximately, half a thickness of a fingernail. Also, manually spin the compressor wheel and determine if it turns smoothly. When running the car, go to WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and confirm that boost pressure on the boost gauge is 6.5 psi or so. If all above is OK, then it is likely the turbocharger is not faulty.

Pull the oil dipstick. Check the oil for visible contaminants. It should be clean but it will darken as the miles add up since the last change. If you see metallic particles sparkling in the oil, stop now and leave. Ask when the oil was last changed. Ask to see maintenance records, especially of oil changes. 3K intervals are great; up to 4.5K intervals are OK (per sticker in engine compartment), Longer intervals or no records, not so good. If they claim frequent oil changes but have no records, you will have to decide whether to believe them or not.

If the car has an automatic transmission, pull the dipstick and check the cleanliness of the oil. Smell the oil when the transmission is hot. If it smells at all burnt, walk away and find another. If you see sparkling metallic particles, walk away. Complete the diagnostic check of the auto tranny; procedure begins at: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/at/AT_013.html

Check the fan belts for cracks and obvious wear. Grab the water pump pulley with both hands and rock it back and forth to see if there is excessive wear (unlikely on most Supras). Be careful; it might be hot. Inspect the brake and clutch fluid reservoirs for proper level and color of fluid. If it is very dark and dirty looking, plan on some $$s for repairs in the future and get the fluids changed as soon as you buy the car. Check the power steering fluid reservoir for level and leaks. Check the air conditioner compressor for oil leaks. Check for evidence that the radiator's overflow bottle has not overflowed (rust, etc. on body parts below the reservoir) - this may be a sign of a blown head gasket.

Have someone start the car while you watch the exhaust pipe. Look for smoke. In general, a white cloud indicates water in the cylinders from a leaking head gasket or cracked block. If it pumps out great clouds of smoke, thank the owner politely and leave.

Go back to the front and listen to the engine. Listen for knocks and any unusual sounds. If you are not familiar with the noises engines make, bring along your favorite gearhead friend to help. Turn on the A/C and check to see that both electric fans behind the radiator come on. Listen to the sounds that start when the A/C compressor comes on. Loud knocking probably means replacement of the compressor. Squealing sounds generally mean the belt is too loose. Some Supra A/Cs whistle a little, and that is generally not a problem. Check to see if the A/C blows cold air. On a hot day, you should feel cold air at the vents within 30 seconds. If it takes much longer, there may be a refrigerant leak to fix and a recharge of R12/R134a.

Once the engine is warmed up, grab the throttle valve and rev the engine slowly up, listening for knocking sounds that come on at a certain rpm levels and fade away. Early signs of main bearing wear will show up here. Does the engine idle smoothly without shaking from side to side?

The test drive: Start with the targa on, windows closed and the radio off. This minimizes the wind noise and allows you to better hear the mechanical noises. Again, if you are not familiar with these sounds, bring along your gearhead friend. The Supra is a fairly quiet car (for most of its years, it was Toyota's flagship car). You will hear whirring sounds from the rear, which are usually tire noise. Listen for the sound of dry bearings grinding away. If it changes with road speed, but not with engine RPM as you change gears, it is probably the rear wheel bearings or the differential. Listen to the sounds of the transmission as you go through the gears. High-pitched whining noises in one or more gears are indicative of bad bearings in the transmission. Be sure you try out the reverse gear as well.

For an automatic transmission, the shifts should be ultra smooth. Place the shifter lever in "L-Range," the transmission should shift from 1st to 2nd and stay there. Place the shifter in "Drive," shifting from 1st through 4th should be smooth. Disengage the "O/D" switch; the transmission should not shift into 4th. Push in the"PWR" button; the transmission should stay in each gear for a longer period of time than when the "PWR" switch is in the "NORM" position.

For a standard transmission: Is the clutch smooth on engagement? Any slippage? Go up and down the gears several times. Any sound or feel of bad synchronizers? Is the acceleration about right (you will have to drive several to get a baseline for this comparison)?

At about 15 mph in 1st gear, get on and off the gas quickly several times. Do you feel or hear any slack in the driveline? Drive about 45 mph in 5th. Disengage the clutch, rev the engine about 2K above what it was doing and pop the clutch. If the engine immediately drops back to the original rpm area, the clutch is probably good. If it comes back slowly and the car sounds like it is, you have the first signs of clutch slippage. Be gentle--it's not your car yet and it is easy to cook the flywheel doing this!

Drive at 60, 65, 70 mph and whatever speeds you can safely do under the conditions. Supras are infamous for the 65 mph shimmy. Check for this. Does the car wander or follow the longitudinal grooves in the road? Does it feel controlled over bumps, or does it wallow like an old Buick?

Try the brakes. Do they have a solid feel? Does the car stop straight? Do you feel pulsations in the brake pedal? On a deserted road or large parking lot, make some quick left and right turns. Does the car feel solid or does it wallow back and forth?

While you are driving in stop and go traffic, does the engine stutter, misfire, bog down after a shift? All are signs that the plug wires need replacing, or worse (bad sensors, etc.).

With the car stopped, set the handbrake. Does it feel solid? It should go up about 3 inches. If you feel it hit a solid stop at the top, it is either maladjusted or the rear pads are worn out. Gently try to move the car with the brake applied. Does it seem to hold?

Check the various VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) locations for consistency; variations could well indicate that the Supra has been in a major accident. The VIN is either a riveted plate or in the form of a sticker. Here's what I came up with without checking the Owner's Manual:

Front of driver's side dash, at juncture between dash and windshield (duh!)
Doorjamb next to strike plate (both sides, sticker)
Fire wall (1/4" tall stamped letters on welded plate)
Inside front bumper, passenger side, just under turn signal (sticker)
Consult Owners Manual for other locations.

Ask if the car has been used in autocross. Ask if it has ever been on a 1/4-mile track. Ask if the Supra had ever had any performance modifications (they are often removed and stock items reinstalled prior to sale). Two observations here, if the answer is "yes" and "often," then this may have affected the total life of the Supra - you be the judge.

Summary: All in all, the Supra is a well-built, tough car with an excellent maintenance record. If the car has had good care and maintenance, it will give you good service. If you suspect the car has not had good care, pass on it and find another. If you have been following the list for a while, you are aware of the few problems that Supras have. The above is not overkill for many people, especially if you are looking at high mileage cars. I'm sure there are some areas I've overlooked. If you are not mechanically inclined, bring along that gearhead friend to help out (if he/she really knows what he/she is talking about). After the purchase: After you have found and bought that perfect (for you) used Supra, and unless you got receipts from the previous owner(s) for recent maintenance, do the following:

Change the engine oil now and at 3k intervals. I use Castro GTX, others prefer synthetics, either is OK, you decide. In theory, synthetics are better for the turbo since they are resistant to ash deposits forming when the turbo/engine is not run for a couple of minutes after a "hard run." Check and replace the air and fuel filters (fuel filter is above differential), if needed.

If the antifreeze has not been changed recently, change it and use a 50-50 mix of a good quality antifreeze and distilled water.

If the car has high mileage, consider changing the transmission and differential fluids. It would also be a good idea to change the brake and clutch fluids as well, especially if they are dark and dirty. Do any other maintenance per the owner's manual. If the timing belt has not been changed and is near a 60K interval, do it now. Clean and detail it (the previous owner probably didn't keep it as clean as you want your new baby to be), and then give it a coat of wax.

Then, enjoy the Supra experience. More smiles to the mile than any other car.

Arlene Lanman
88T automatic




































Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Nissan S-Chassis - Look At This S-Car Go

Breaking Down The Legendary S-Chassis From Nissan

Photography by Super Street Archives, Warren Shim-Quee
When most people think of iconic Nissan cars, the two that standout are the GT-R and Fairlady Z. But of all the chassis that Nissan has produced, none other has left a bigger mark on the tuning industry as the S-chassis, the cars you know better as either the S13, S14 or S15. From drag racing, time attack and most of all, drifting, the S-chassis has done it all and with great success. Iconic shops in Japan and the US have found fame in just building up this single platform.
History of the S-Chassis
The first Nissan to be named Silvia debuted in 1964. But it wasn't until 1974 that the first actual vehicle with an S designation was released, the S10. And when the S13 Silvia was released, all hell broke loose. The car was a success both domestically in Japan and on a global scale. The first introduction of the SR20DET engine gave tuners something to rally around. At the time, neither the Lancer Evolution nor the Impreza STI were released yet. Honda was offering the EF8 CR-X, EF9 Civic SiR and DA Integra, but those cars only came with naturally-aspirated engines. Toyota had already cut out the AE86 Corolla and turned its predecessor into a FF pansy. The only real tuning platforms were the Mazda FC3S RX-7, Toyota MA70 Supra and the Nissan Z32 Fairlady Z. At the same time, the Japanese asset price bubble finally popped and enthusiasts had to look for a more cost effective platform. Tuning companies went straight to work on building parts for the Silvia. The S13 hatchback sold so well in Japan, that Nissan continued to sell the 180SX hatchback concurrently with the S14 chassis through to 1998.
Near the end of 1994, Nissan released the next generation, the S14 chassis. The base chassis and powertrain being the same, Japanese tuning shops continued developing parts. Around this time heavy development in ROM tuning took place. Once the coding for the ECU was cracked, a whole new world of tuning opened up. Now more reliable power could be harnessed without the use of piggyback controllers. Tuners could remap ECUs for larger capacity airflow sensors and injectors without sacrificing drivability and the need to buy additional fuel controllers. This same methodology of tuning continued onto the final release in 1999 of the S-chassis line, the S15 Silvia.
When the initial planning for the S13 240SX (US version of the Silvia and 180SX) was mapped out, a turbocharged engine was opted out. Instead, Nissan decided to implement an engine that was used in their trucks as its powerplant. While there were two turbocharged engine options being sold in Japan (SR20DET and CA18DET), the US would be doomed to its fate of coming equipped with only a naturally-aspirated single cam engine, the KA24E. In 1991, after 2 years of sales, the KA24E would be replaced by a dual-overhead cam version, the KA24DE. Although sales were strong for the S13 in the US, it just didn't have the same impact as it did in Japan. The lack of power had the majority of enthusiasts turning to Hondas as a result. This trend of lackluster sales would continue over to S14. When the time came to release the S15, strict emissions standards and a poor performing management kept it from ever seeing a US debut.
It wasn't until the rise of the popularity of drifting in the early part of 2000s that people started buying up every S-chassis in sight. This suddenly breathed new life into the S-chassis in the US, much to the dismay of all the underground drifters and OG 240SX enthusiasts. What was once a car relegated as a ghetto ride, started to eclipse the almighty Civic in popularity. Drifting became the new motorsport of choice, replacing the wonder years of import drag racing. A new niche in the industry sprung up and manufacturers saw a new demand for parts they never dreamt of keeping in stock.
240SX Sales
YEARCARS SOLD IN THE US
198968118
199060582
199134534
199227033
199321471
19941167
199525114
19967334
19973655
19982178
VEHICLE PRICING IN 2001
VEHICLELAYOUTESTIMATED POWERPRICE
DC2 Integra Type-RFF210ps2,576,000JPY
S15 Silvia Spec RFR250ps2,290,000JPY
FD3S RX-7 Type RBFR255ps2,948,000JPY
GDB Impreza STI Type RAAWD260PS2,968,000JPY
CT9A Lancer Evo VII GSRAWD280PS2,998,000JPY
The success of the Silvia is largely attributed to price per power. Though the Japanese automakers blundered this when they brought the cars to the US, they nailed it in Japan. The car's pricing positioned it lower than their competitors but had the power potential to surpass any of the competition on the track at any time. This coupled with tremendous aftermarket support, not only from the Japanese tuning industry but also from their corporate motorsports division, NISMO. Cross-compatibility throughout the years refined tuning parts as time went on. As the popularity of the S-chassis began to skyrocket, an encyclopedia of parts was already available.
The S-Chassis in Motorsports
The FR layout of the S15 made it incredibly suitable for motorsports. Nissan utilized the chassis for a number of years in the JGTC GT300 class. Following suit, enthusiasts have pushed the limits with the chassis in all forms of racing. The S-chassis can be found on the dragstrip as well as on the circuit. Every year at the Tsukuba Circuit gathering, tuners come out to determine who has the bragging rights of having the fastest Silvia at RevSpeed's Super Lap Battle. There are always a couple teams that show up campaigning some sort of S-chassis, clicking off sub-minute lap times (that means really, really fast). Closer to home and on a more extreme level, Mazworx's drag S15 can be found clicking off 9-second passes on the dragstrip.
Aftermarket support for the S-chassis continues to shine to this day. There are more aftermarket suspension components for this car than any other car on the market. Support doesn't just stop there either. Motor mount kits are available to fit in engines like the RB26DETT (inline 6-cyl Skyline engine), the VQ35 (V6 350Z), the VH45 (V8 Infiniti Q45) and the LS1 (V8 Corvette).
In no other type of motorsport has the S-chassis reined supreme than drifting. This platform has successfully scored more wins (26) and more championships (5 out of 9) in D1. At the beginning of the 2010 season, there were 15 S-chassis entries in D1GP and 12 in Formula D. Even more convincing is that many drivers trace their roots back to S-chassis. The argument can be made about the AE86 Corolla, but the results speak for themselves. Ken Gushi, Ryan Tuerck, Chris Forsberg, Dai Yoshihara, Vaughn Gittin Jr. and Robbie Nishida have at one time or another been behind the wheel of a S-chassis.
Of the S-chassis based drift cars, no other has been more successful than the Auto Produce BOSS built S15. Originally piloted by Yasuyuki Kazama to a championship in 2005 and to a second championship by Youichi Imamura in 2009, this same car has racked up 11 first place finishes. Although it has gone through different combinations of engine setups and aerodynamics, this S15 has proven to be one solid performer. The man behind the development of this car, Auto Produce BOSS president Kazuhiro Fujioka, said, "The real advantage of the Silvia is its compact chassis design, extensive availability of parts and the driving position make it the ultimate drifting machine."
Of all the tuning shops in the world, none other is synonymous with the S-chassis than Yashio Factory. Led by Kazuyoshi Okamura, affectionately known as Oka-chan, he has built and raced S-chassis to legendary status. He says, "Besides the fact that it is one of the very few FR platforms in Japan, it has an amazing amount of potential. Tuning changes are easy to make and deliver results that can be directly felt behind the wheel. The further you push the limits of the car, the further it performs. It's a car you can take from 1'12.00'' at Tsukuba Circuit and transform it to click off a 57.70''."
One driver who needs no introduction is Nobiteru "NOB" Taniguchi, the infamous drifter and racecar driver who has long been a fan of the S-chassis. This man has been behind of the wheel of almost every modern sports car and numerous racecars. His love of the S-chassis goes beyond the track, which he also won a D1 Championship with. He owns an S13, 14 and 15 as daily drivers. When asked why he chose the Silvia out of any car he could own, he said, "I love the car for the pure enjoyment I get out of driving it. I've owned my Silvia for a long time and I never get sick of it."
S-Chassis Styling
The current "Hella Flush" madness can be partly attributed to the S-chassis. Along with the AE86, the S13 helped to popularize lower offsets, wider wheels and stretched tires on Japanese cars. Along with that came aggressively low body kits, over fenders and incredibly low stance. When styling got too pretty and out of hand, the trendsetters turned everything around, making zip ties, primer and broken fiberglass look good. No matter how old the S-chassis gets, they are continuously evolving style-wise, making them as cool or cooler than than any new car.
The Future of the S Car?
No other car has been modified for so many decades more than the S-chassis. Not just popular in the US and Japan, the cars have been widely accepted in every continent of the world for all types of racing. Parts are still being developed today, making the S-chassis competitive with modern day performance cars. Unfortunately, in 2002, Nissan stopped the production of the S15 and has since ended the Silvia line. Although there were rumors of an S16 project, Nissan has since said they have scrapped the project. We can only hope that one day they will bring back a line of affordable and tuner friendly FR cars.
S-Chassis Vocabulary
S13 - '89-94 240SX (US), '89-94 Silvia (Japan), '89-98 180SX (Japan)
S14 - '95-98 240SX (US), '95-98 Silvia (Japan)
S15 - '99-02 Silvia (Japan)
Silvia - Japanese S13, S14 and S15 coupe (not the S13 hatchback)
180SX - Japanese S13 hatchback
Zenki - Early models, pre-refresh ('89-90 S13, '95-96 S14)
Chuki - Middle models, after first refresh, if there's a second ('91-94 S13)
Kouki - Late model, last revision ('95-98 S13, '97-98 S14)
Strawberry Face - S15 front end; the Japanese word for 1 (ichi) and 5 (go) are similar to 'strawberry' in Japanese
Sileighty - An S13 Silvia front end (coupe) on an S13 180SX (hatchback)
Onevia - An S13 180SX front end (hatchback) on a S13 Silvia (coupe)
S13.4 - An S13 with a S14 front end
S13.5 - An S13 with a S15 front end
S14.5 - An S13 with a S15 front end
S14.3/S15.3/S15.4 - The LAMES. You never go with an older front end. Never!


Read more: http://www.superstreetonline.com/featuredvehicles/sstp_1009_nissan_s_chassis/#ixzz331sTwrrW

Nissan 180SX - Score!

Buying Your Car Off An Online Auction Can Be A Mysterious Wonder...Or A Downright Deal

By Si Johnston, Photography by Matt Howell
Internet auctions can be nerve-shredding affairs, especially if you're looking at buying a heavily-modified ride. Are the pictures you're looking at really what's going to land on your driveway? Did the car of your dreams actually start life as two completely different machines, only to be butchered by some lunatic with an angle grinder? Either way, the risks involved with shelling out your hard earned cash for something you've never driven - or even seen running - drives many people away.
It can be even more terrifying if that car is on the far side of the world. Sure, there are specialists you can go to who will reduce your chances of buying a lemon, but there's always that one in a million chance you're going to get shafted. All in all, spending big cash on a few blurry pixels and a description in a foreign language is toying with danger.
Even the importers aren't immune. One we spoke to, who wanted to stay anonymous, said, "It can be a minefield just banking on pictures alone on auction sites. I've had cars in that weren't as described or in a worse state than I was led to believe. Sometimes I've had to put a couple grand in to bring a car up to spec where I can sell it, but you can get lucky.
"One MR2 I bought from a Japanese auction site in my early days was sold as stock and looked like one, too. But when it landed, I lifted the hood and found an Aladdin's cave of goodies - a massive HKS turbo, HKS exhaust, SARD injectors, the full works. It even had Öhlins track suspension. When we put it on the rolling road it ended up making 350hp at the hubs. I kept it for myself for nearly a year."
So it's not all doom and gloom then. Take the jaw-dropping 180SX you see here. This was brought in for SW Performance in Hoogeveen, the Netherlands, by JM-Imports in the UK. Check the spec sheet. It's fairly comprehensive for a stripped-out drift-style Silvia and if you were (sad enough like me) to work out what all those top-drawer parts are worth you'd be in for the thick end of $20K. Add in labor and it's another five grand. Bolt a low-mileage, clean 180SX into the mix and you're not looking at much change from $30k, and SW performance got the car for significantly less than that (we've been asked not to say how much), the lucky SOBs.
Which brings us to this Nissan's killer blow - it's stance. Even though it's dropped hard on its TEIN coilovers and over those deep-dish Racing Hart CRs, there's plenty of scope to go lower. However, as much as we all really want something that drags its sides, the real world often dictates that we can't stand hundreds of dollars in re-sprays and filler-work every month. It's all well and good for show, but for a proper driver - especially one you can use as it's meant to be used - you need compromise.
The key is contacts. JM have a network of trusted guys in Japan who check cars out before they buy them, but even then the quality of this 180 took everyone by surprise. The devil is in the detail, and not only is the motor a beauty with carbon and polished loveliness everywhere, it's also had a full wire tuck - usually the preserve of the fastidious VeeDub boys. It's real next level stuff.
The SR20DET is making power right around 260bhp. They junked the production-spec T25G for the slightly larger T28 blower from the S14, which immediately lets you run a snitch more boost for a 15-20hp gain. The XS Power custom manifold and 3.5'' exhaust ease the path of the gases sufficiently to release a few more horses and the Mine's ECU flash tops it all off to give a slight power hike and a super responsive throttle while keeping it ultra-reliable.
Inside, everything non-essential has been chucked and this is a great tip for anyone who wants to increase acceleration and pick-up times from their own machine. Ditching rear seats, the spare wheel, all the sound-deadening and rear trim and the stock door cards have saved almost 100lbs - not bad for an afternoon's work. Even after adding in the cage, the pay-off from the lighter wheels, FRP panels, lighter exhaust and carbon door panels and dash should easily see 200lbs lost in total. Yet here's where more eagle-eyed readers will spot what looks like a gyp.
OK, so it's not real carbon used for the hood, the roof or the pillars, although for some reason the tailgate is a genuine carbon item that was then covered in carbon wrap to match.
So, the lesson is that auctions need not be terrifying. There are real bargains to be had if you do plenty of research and not get suckered into buying the first thing that catches your eye. It also helps to have a bit of luck on your side, too.
Tuning Menu
Nissan 180SX
Owner
Sam at SW Performance
Hometown
Hoogeveen, Netherlands
Occupation
Japanese importer and tuner
Power
260bhp
Engine
Nissan (1998cc) SR20DET; S14 T28 turbocharger; underdrive pulleys; aftermarket fuel pump; electric fans; anodized oil cooler; aluminum cone induction kit; braided lines; GReddy surge and catch tanks, aluminum radiator and larger front-mount intercooler; polished hard pipe kit; full wire tuck, chromed head cover with carbon-fiber sparkplug cover; stainless steel battery box with XS battery and fuse box relocated to the boot; XS Power custom manifold with stainless steel exhaust system and 3.5'' tailpipe
Drivetrain
1.5-way ATS limited-slip differential; ORC racing clutch
Engine Management
Mine's chipped ECU
Footwork & Chassis
TEIN fully-adjustable coilovers; custom XS sway bars; Cusco front and rear strut braces; custom six-point rollcage; C-post brace
Brakes
Factory discs and Fast Road pads front and rear with S14 calipers
Wheels & Tires
18x9'' Racing Hart CR wheels with 225/40-18 Federal tires (front), 18x10'' Racing Hart CR wheels with 245/40-18 Federal tires (rear)
Exterior
S14 front end conversion; vented wide front arches; custom rear widebody; Uras front/rear bumpers and side skirts; carbon-fiber-wrapped hood, tailgate (over true carbon tailgate) roof, B-pillars and D1 mirrors; rear crystal lights and HID headlight conversion with matt black headlight duct; custom Kiwi green re-spray
Interior
Fully stripped rear end, Sparco Torino bucket seats; MOMO Trek steering wheel; carbon fiber dashboard and door panel inserts; A'PEXi boost gauge and 240km/h speedo
Ice
Pioneer double-DIN CD/Tuner and 6.5in Infinity components


Read more: http://www.superstreetonline.com/featuredvehicles/sstp_1010_nissan_180sx_score/#ixzz331sEv1mz