7M-GTE
REMOVAL
Put the car up on 4 jackstands - use the standard
jack points for the stands. Be SURE the car is steady and secure before
climbing under it. JJ: Lift front while disassembling everything. Lift rear as
high as possible, this will lower the front of the car and make for a more
natural angle when pulling the motor/tranny.
1. Roll ALL windows up. You will be removing your battery and the windows won't go up once the battery is out.
2. Attach a 19mm 6-point socket with a breaker bar onto crank pulley bolt- click engine over to bust the bolt loose (works like a charm).
3. Disconnect the hood struts where they attach to the hood. You can use a cord tied between the hood latch and the spoiler (or something else behind the car) to secure the hood in a near vertical orientation. If you are doing this project outside, just remove the hood. You won't like the outcome when a stiff breeze blows your hood backwards onto the windshield. If you remove the hood, mark or scribe the hood location on the brackets prior to removal - this will aid reinstalling the hood later. JJ: 5 more minutes and the hood is off. MUCH easier and safer. Just remember to put a couple towels on the roof of the car. Lift hood off and set it down on the roof.
4. Remove the bottom engine cover if you still have one
5. Drain the tranny fluid, engine oil, and coolant. Do this as you perform other tasks. You might think it not necessary to drain your expensive synthetic transmission oil, but if you don't, it will come out the rear of the transmission while you are pulling the engine out with the hoist, so do it now.
6. Open gas door and remove gas filler cap - leave door open. JJ: Gas filler cap can be left on approx one half turn, but still loose. LEAVE the cap loose. The gas will expand and push out the open fuel line.
7. Remove battery JJ: Just disconnect it.
8. Remove glove box
9. Remove ECU
10. Unplug rest of connectors up there - HAC, ABS
11. Pull main harness grommet the off firewall from the outside w/ small flatblade screwdriver. Pull the main harness and connectors through the grommet hole.
12. Remove center console interior piece that radio goes in.
13. Put transmission in neutral.
14. Remove gear shift, but leave in car.
15. Stuff a rag in the gearshift hole of the transmission. This is to prevent dirt, undercoating, foreign objects, etc. from getting in your transmission.
16. Remove turbo heat shield. JJ: Don't need to unless the turbo elbow has to come off.
17. Remove the exhaust. Depending on your exhaust, it may be easy to just remove the downpipe (can take elbow off if you must). If the nuts and bolts between the downpipe and the second cat are impossibly frozen, you can remove the entire exhaust as a unit. Remove the three downpipe to turbo elbow nuts first. Use a 14mm 6-point socket and a universal joint with a long extension
18. Remove driveshaft. Separate the driveshaft from the differential first (14 mm fasteners). You can use the parking brake to keep the driveshaft from rotating as you loosen the fasteners. Drop the carrier bearing assembly and remove the tunnel brace. The driveshaft pulls straight out from the rear of the transmission. Some have successfully pulled the driveshaft from the transmission by lowering the center bearing and the brace in the tunnel, but leaving the driveshaft bolted to the differential. JJ: You're making ALOT of extra work removing it from the diff. You don't need to. Just leave the driveshaft alone, it will slide out of the tranny on it's own. Then when you reinstall you drop the center bearing and the bar across the tunnel. Stick the driveshaft back in the tranny and bolt the center bearing/bar back in.
19. Remove speedo cable from tranny. Stuff a clean rag in this opening also. JJ: There's a joint about 1.5' from the tranny - cable splits in two. It's right next to the cat I believe.
20. Remove clutch slave cylinder and mount that holds the hydraulic line to body. Place the slave cylinder out of the way, but be careful not to kink or stress the lines or hoses.
21. Remove fuel line at the union just to left side of slave cylinder (take the little black plastic cover off. - use 2 wrenches (if it wont break free- spray WD40 or equiv. on it and do this later - BUT DON'T FORGET). Gasoline will drip out and down your arms - be prepared. If your tank is full, there is the potential to drip a lot of gasoline here. Be prepared to plug the supply and return lines leading to the rear of the car. A section of rubber hose capped at one end with the right sized screw or bolt works fine. JJ: Also try and secure the hose end up as high as possible. TF: Remove at the joint under intake. Remove from the bottom; more leverage.
22. Remove the ground wire/strap between the transmission and body in this area - don't be suprised if it is missing - undo it if you find one
23. Remove the big hose from fender to 3k pipe
24. Remove the accordion hose to turbo intake with air cleaner attached
25. Loosen and pull down the turbo-to-intercooler hose where it attaches to turbo (or spend $$$ later - the hoist will destroy it if you don't)
26. Undo upper and lower radiator hoses - take them off at engine too
27. Unclip the electric fan wire(s) depending on year.
28. Disconnect the coolant reservoir hose at the top of the radiator.
29. Loosen the 4 12mm bolts fan pulley nuts with a wrench (socket won't fit here)
30. Take the fan out with the radiator - hold the fan to radiator and lift all it out. Tighten the radiator drain plug now so you don't have to remember later.
31. Loosen PS adj. bolt and alternator adj., and the a/c belt idler and take all the belts off.
32. Unbolt the AC compressor. There are four long bolts that go through the compressor to the bracket - leave the bracket on the engine. Loosen the 4 long bolts with ratchet for some and you will have to use a 12mm wrench for others. The top two may be hard to get out - it's OK to leave them in the compressor. Make sure the compressor is free from the bracket. JJ: Easier to take the a/c bracket off the motor. It'll have to come of later anyways. Two bolts under intake are easy to take out from the top or the bottom. This will remind you of the ground strap near the motor mount too.
33. Remove the PS pump bolt from the PS pump mounting bracket and position the PS pump out of way.
34. Remove groundstrap from rear exhaust side of the engine (goes to throttle bracket). JJ: This ground strap actually goes to the rear engine hook/head.
35. Remove the 2 throttle cables from the throttle bracket and stick out of the way - OR take throttle bracket off and push out of way. JJ: Take the throttle bracket off the motor....no need to adjust the cables later. It will fold over near the cruise control easily, or sit up on your wipers(towel under it of course).
36. Disconnect wires around where the fuse box is - you will see what can stay with the engine to come out. Leave as much hooked to engine as humanly possible - makes reassembly much quicker. - the DIAG block comes out with the harness and engine. JJ: Don't worry about marking them...they are all different.
37. Pull other fuel line off - down bottom on intake side - the one that is a hose with clamp to pipe not the banjo one (its already off).
38. Remove the brake booster line off of manifold and turn upward
39. Take the vacuum line off of back on intake manifold (by EGR) - It is a very good idea here remove the screw in nipple it attaches to - it is easy to break.
40. Take both heater hoses off - one on the right side by the charcoal canister and the other near the brake booster. Position a piece of wood near the one by the brake booster or it may be smashed when you take engine out
41. Put a jack under the tranny, but forward from the mount to the body. Use the jack to take the weight off the transmission mount. Remove the transmission mount
42. Remove the 2 engine mount bolts - on 90 and greater and some 89s you may want to unbolt the fluid mount on both sides (top and bottom) of mount or they may break.
43. Unbolt crossmember under the oil pan.
44. Remove oil cooler lines by the I/C on the right hand side - be prepared to plug both the oil cooler hard lines and the oil cooler hoses if you don't want oil trails and/or puddles on the floor. A sandwich baggie over the end and a rubber band will work
45. Lower jack down and out from under tranny and take it out of the way
46. Set ECU harness and connectors on the engine where they can't get hurt
47. Get an assistant - engine removal can be done solo, but it's better to have another brain and set of hands. SH%#%#*^*G*t happens and if you die with the engine out, no one will even want your car.
48. Jack the hoist all the way to sky and release it - let it bleed all the air out - be prepared that your hoist may be a POS and may rape the front of your car - Scott Mech's 90T got raped by a new hoist that had an air pocket in the ram - even though he had bled it before. Be PREPARED for that thing to drop the engine - just in case. JJ: Actually the real issue is learning how sensitive the release is on the ram.
49. Attach a chain around lift hook by alternator and to back of engine - there is a hook there where the heater hose runs - this will work. Make sure you are working with a good chain and hardware! Don't skimp here. If you aren't sure the chain and fasteners are strong enough, they probably are not. You may want to stuff a bolt through the chain links on either side of the hoist hook to prevent the chain from sliding through the hook at an inconvenient time. If you can get a load leveler, get one - it will be easier. SLOWLY jack this thing up. The engine will barely clear the oil pan over the center support. the rest out - good luck
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some reinstallation thoughts:
If the car has ABS, LEAVE the harness that runs over the tranny to the passenger side out of the clip on top of the tranny. You will thank yourself on the next BHG replacement...you won't have to drop the tranny down to disconnect it...simply take the harness out of the other clips and pull it down on the passenger side...just enough room to unhook it.
Putting the engine in presents a few other problems as well!
It is 10x easier to pull the engine because the tranny "naturally" follows the tranny tunnel and comes out on it's own angle. However putting it back in, you need to really pry and push that fat tranny's butt back down to get it in the car! You need a helper for this part!
1. Roll ALL windows up. You will be removing your battery and the windows won't go up once the battery is out.
2. Attach a 19mm 6-point socket with a breaker bar onto crank pulley bolt- click engine over to bust the bolt loose (works like a charm).
3. Disconnect the hood struts where they attach to the hood. You can use a cord tied between the hood latch and the spoiler (or something else behind the car) to secure the hood in a near vertical orientation. If you are doing this project outside, just remove the hood. You won't like the outcome when a stiff breeze blows your hood backwards onto the windshield. If you remove the hood, mark or scribe the hood location on the brackets prior to removal - this will aid reinstalling the hood later. JJ: 5 more minutes and the hood is off. MUCH easier and safer. Just remember to put a couple towels on the roof of the car. Lift hood off and set it down on the roof.
4. Remove the bottom engine cover if you still have one
5. Drain the tranny fluid, engine oil, and coolant. Do this as you perform other tasks. You might think it not necessary to drain your expensive synthetic transmission oil, but if you don't, it will come out the rear of the transmission while you are pulling the engine out with the hoist, so do it now.
6. Open gas door and remove gas filler cap - leave door open. JJ: Gas filler cap can be left on approx one half turn, but still loose. LEAVE the cap loose. The gas will expand and push out the open fuel line.
7. Remove battery JJ: Just disconnect it.
8. Remove glove box
9. Remove ECU
10. Unplug rest of connectors up there - HAC, ABS
11. Pull main harness grommet the off firewall from the outside w/ small flatblade screwdriver. Pull the main harness and connectors through the grommet hole.
12. Remove center console interior piece that radio goes in.
13. Put transmission in neutral.
14. Remove gear shift, but leave in car.
15. Stuff a rag in the gearshift hole of the transmission. This is to prevent dirt, undercoating, foreign objects, etc. from getting in your transmission.
16. Remove turbo heat shield. JJ: Don't need to unless the turbo elbow has to come off.
17. Remove the exhaust. Depending on your exhaust, it may be easy to just remove the downpipe (can take elbow off if you must). If the nuts and bolts between the downpipe and the second cat are impossibly frozen, you can remove the entire exhaust as a unit. Remove the three downpipe to turbo elbow nuts first. Use a 14mm 6-point socket and a universal joint with a long extension
18. Remove driveshaft. Separate the driveshaft from the differential first (14 mm fasteners). You can use the parking brake to keep the driveshaft from rotating as you loosen the fasteners. Drop the carrier bearing assembly and remove the tunnel brace. The driveshaft pulls straight out from the rear of the transmission. Some have successfully pulled the driveshaft from the transmission by lowering the center bearing and the brace in the tunnel, but leaving the driveshaft bolted to the differential. JJ: You're making ALOT of extra work removing it from the diff. You don't need to. Just leave the driveshaft alone, it will slide out of the tranny on it's own. Then when you reinstall you drop the center bearing and the bar across the tunnel. Stick the driveshaft back in the tranny and bolt the center bearing/bar back in.
19. Remove speedo cable from tranny. Stuff a clean rag in this opening also. JJ: There's a joint about 1.5' from the tranny - cable splits in two. It's right next to the cat I believe.
20. Remove clutch slave cylinder and mount that holds the hydraulic line to body. Place the slave cylinder out of the way, but be careful not to kink or stress the lines or hoses.
21. Remove fuel line at the union just to left side of slave cylinder (take the little black plastic cover off. - use 2 wrenches (if it wont break free- spray WD40 or equiv. on it and do this later - BUT DON'T FORGET). Gasoline will drip out and down your arms - be prepared. If your tank is full, there is the potential to drip a lot of gasoline here. Be prepared to plug the supply and return lines leading to the rear of the car. A section of rubber hose capped at one end with the right sized screw or bolt works fine. JJ: Also try and secure the hose end up as high as possible. TF: Remove at the joint under intake. Remove from the bottom; more leverage.
22. Remove the ground wire/strap between the transmission and body in this area - don't be suprised if it is missing - undo it if you find one
23. Remove the big hose from fender to 3k pipe
24. Remove the accordion hose to turbo intake with air cleaner attached
25. Loosen and pull down the turbo-to-intercooler hose where it attaches to turbo (or spend $$$ later - the hoist will destroy it if you don't)
26. Undo upper and lower radiator hoses - take them off at engine too
27. Unclip the electric fan wire(s) depending on year.
28. Disconnect the coolant reservoir hose at the top of the radiator.
29. Loosen the 4 12mm bolts fan pulley nuts with a wrench (socket won't fit here)
30. Take the fan out with the radiator - hold the fan to radiator and lift all it out. Tighten the radiator drain plug now so you don't have to remember later.
31. Loosen PS adj. bolt and alternator adj., and the a/c belt idler and take all the belts off.
32. Unbolt the AC compressor. There are four long bolts that go through the compressor to the bracket - leave the bracket on the engine. Loosen the 4 long bolts with ratchet for some and you will have to use a 12mm wrench for others. The top two may be hard to get out - it's OK to leave them in the compressor. Make sure the compressor is free from the bracket. JJ: Easier to take the a/c bracket off the motor. It'll have to come of later anyways. Two bolts under intake are easy to take out from the top or the bottom. This will remind you of the ground strap near the motor mount too.
33. Remove the PS pump bolt from the PS pump mounting bracket and position the PS pump out of way.
34. Remove groundstrap from rear exhaust side of the engine (goes to throttle bracket). JJ: This ground strap actually goes to the rear engine hook/head.
35. Remove the 2 throttle cables from the throttle bracket and stick out of the way - OR take throttle bracket off and push out of way. JJ: Take the throttle bracket off the motor....no need to adjust the cables later. It will fold over near the cruise control easily, or sit up on your wipers(towel under it of course).
36. Disconnect wires around where the fuse box is - you will see what can stay with the engine to come out. Leave as much hooked to engine as humanly possible - makes reassembly much quicker. - the DIAG block comes out with the harness and engine. JJ: Don't worry about marking them...they are all different.
37. Pull other fuel line off - down bottom on intake side - the one that is a hose with clamp to pipe not the banjo one (its already off).
38. Remove the brake booster line off of manifold and turn upward
39. Take the vacuum line off of back on intake manifold (by EGR) - It is a very good idea here remove the screw in nipple it attaches to - it is easy to break.
40. Take both heater hoses off - one on the right side by the charcoal canister and the other near the brake booster. Position a piece of wood near the one by the brake booster or it may be smashed when you take engine out
41. Put a jack under the tranny, but forward from the mount to the body. Use the jack to take the weight off the transmission mount. Remove the transmission mount
42. Remove the 2 engine mount bolts - on 90 and greater and some 89s you may want to unbolt the fluid mount on both sides (top and bottom) of mount or they may break.
43. Unbolt crossmember under the oil pan.
44. Remove oil cooler lines by the I/C on the right hand side - be prepared to plug both the oil cooler hard lines and the oil cooler hoses if you don't want oil trails and/or puddles on the floor. A sandwich baggie over the end and a rubber band will work
45. Lower jack down and out from under tranny and take it out of the way
46. Set ECU harness and connectors on the engine where they can't get hurt
47. Get an assistant - engine removal can be done solo, but it's better to have another brain and set of hands. SH%#%#*^*G*t happens and if you die with the engine out, no one will even want your car.
48. Jack the hoist all the way to sky and release it - let it bleed all the air out - be prepared that your hoist may be a POS and may rape the front of your car - Scott Mech's 90T got raped by a new hoist that had an air pocket in the ram - even though he had bled it before. Be PREPARED for that thing to drop the engine - just in case. JJ: Actually the real issue is learning how sensitive the release is on the ram.
49. Attach a chain around lift hook by alternator and to back of engine - there is a hook there where the heater hose runs - this will work. Make sure you are working with a good chain and hardware! Don't skimp here. If you aren't sure the chain and fasteners are strong enough, they probably are not. You may want to stuff a bolt through the chain links on either side of the hoist hook to prevent the chain from sliding through the hook at an inconvenient time. If you can get a load leveler, get one - it will be easier. SLOWLY jack this thing up. The engine will barely clear the oil pan over the center support. the rest out - good luck
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some reinstallation thoughts:
If the car has ABS, LEAVE the harness that runs over the tranny to the passenger side out of the clip on top of the tranny. You will thank yourself on the next BHG replacement...you won't have to drop the tranny down to disconnect it...simply take the harness out of the other clips and pull it down on the passenger side...just enough room to unhook it.
Putting the engine in presents a few other problems as well!
It is 10x easier to pull the engine because the tranny "naturally" follows the tranny tunnel and comes out on it's own angle. However putting it back in, you need to really pry and push that fat tranny's butt back down to get it in the car! You need a helper for this part!
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